A Beginner's Guide to Highlighting and Contouring

A mistake that I used to make was applying foundation and expecting that to make my face look a perfected version of its self.  Foundation is great for evening your complexion and covering up imperfections, however, it creates a uniform look to the skin which can leave your face looking flat and unnatural.  Enter highlighting and contouring.

The concept of highlighting and contouring is fairly straightforward: you highlight the areas that you want to make more prominent and contour the areas that you want to create the illusion of depth in.

Bronzer, highlight, blush, and contour.

Some highlighters are more shimmery than others and some are even matte.  When it comes to choosing a contour shade, I look for something with a slightly cool undertone to help mimic the look of natural shadows.  I think it's important to note that a bronzer is not always ideal for contouring with.  This is because bronzers are typically warmer in tone.  Take a look at the picture to the left: the bronzer is at the top and is a yellowy-brown.  The contour shade that I use (which is actually a blush from Nyx Cosmetics in the shade Taupe) is deeper in shade and doesn't have a yellowy base to it.

Tools of the trade

For brushes, I tend to gravitate to angled cuts for applying my bronzer and contour.  I also prefer a smaller, rounded brush for applying my highlight although a fan brush would also work well.  For blush, I like to use a tapered brush.

Personally, I like to contour the hollows of my cheeks, my temples, the sides of my nose, and my jawline so that I actually have a jawline.  When I'm feeling particularly fancy (read as: when I have extra time which is basically never), I will contour under my bottom lip to make it appear larger and across the top of my nose to add extra definition.

For highlighting, I focus on the tops of my cheekbones, the bridge of my nose, and the cupid's bow of my lips.  Others may add some highlight along the sides of the chin or above the brow bone; it comes done to personal preference and the structure of your face.  I added some subtle highlight above my brows in this picture but I often leave it alone.

As with basically every other aspect of applying makeup, it is important to blend so that you do not have harsh streaks of contour or strips of highlight.  Unless, of course, you like that look.  :)

I regret not including a view from the side as that would better demonstrate the
difference.  However, if you look at my nose and my lower lip, you can see how
adding the contour shade helps to define those features.  Adding a touch of bronzer
across my forehead, keeping it close to the hairline, helps to warm my face up.